However, do they make " drywall screws? I can't use adhesive on the drywall because I am using Green Glue between the layers. Green Glue is not so much an adhesive as is it a soundproofing compound. I've already installed the second layer and am just looking for a way to screw in the edge. Unfortunately you are past the point where you could have installed a stud in that corner as a nailer.
What you are saying is that you have unsupported drywall butting into the corner now. You certainly can try a longer screw, but be careful not to bend the drywall as the screw tightens.
There is going to be a tendency for that corner to wave if you screw it to wall "B" diagonally. Regardless, use fiberglass tape in this corner if unsupported and the seam will have less tendency to crack. I can almost guarantee the corner will crack if you use paper tape. I really think you should take the time to install a corner nailer now.
It may take a couple of hours to fix the situation, but that is better than looking at a cracked, wavy corner after you have invested your time and money, knowing that you could have done right the first time. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered.
How to screw the edge of a sheet of drywall where there is no stud directly behind it? Ask Question. Asked 8 years, 3 months ago. Active 8 years, 3 months ago. Viewed 16k times. Active Oldest Votes. I may have misunderstood your question. Are you installing a second layer of rock directly over a first secured layer of rock with no air gap?
If so, use some PL or other good construction adhesive in that corner between layers. As I stated, I cannot use adhesive between the existing layer of drywall and new layer because I am using Green Glue.
Also, to install a nailer, I'd have had to remove the existing layer. I wouldn't have had a problem doing that had I known I'd encounter this issue. The second layer is already installed, so there's no going back now. Idea: Shouldn't there be plywood on the outside of the house beneath the siding?
If so, a long enough screw should clear the frame and secure into the plywood, right?Call it sheetrock, gypsum board, drywall, or any of a handful of regional names, the fact remains: drywall is the most common interior wall covering in houses and buildings everywhere.
The modern alternative to the old lath and plaster trend, drywall is made in sheets 4 feet wide and, most commonly, 8 feet long, although and foot sheets are also available. Whenever possible, hang full sheets of drywall to avoid labor-intensive seams that may show later. The variables of 2 feet make it naturally end exactly in the center of a stud. When you must cut a piece of drywall, cut it so the end rests on the center of a stud as well.
Then, there is room to attach the sheet to the wood stud underneath with room to attach the next covering, whether drywall or another material. Run a tape measure across the opening to determine the width.
Start at the beginning edge, against the last sheet of drywall, other covering or adjacent wall, and hold the tape measure flat against the ending stud. Mark the center of the ending stud, right next to the measurement on the tape. Record the measurement. Measure again at the top of the area where the sheet of drywall will run. This ensures both measurements match; if the stud is severely warped, for instance, failing to measure in two spots may result in a sheet of drywall that doesn't meet the final stud in areas.
In most drywall installations, drywall is run with the length going horizontally. This creates a seam about 4 feet above the floor and vertical seams at the end of sheet sheet, which are staggered to avoid long, unbroken seams between the horizontal rows of drywall.
Ensure you measure the top and bottom of the row you are working on, not the top and bottom of the wall itself. In the uncommon event of a vertical installation, measure the length of the drywall apart on the wall, vertically, instead.
Transfer the measurements to the face of a sheet of drywall, marking the length of the drywall to fit width-wise, in the case of a typical horizontal application.
For a vertical installation, mark the width of the drywall instead as the length runs vertically on the wall. Mark both sides of the drywall, one with the first measurement and the second with the last measurement.
Snap a chalk line between the two marks. Extend the chalk line, then pick it up slightly -- too far can cause an inaccurate line -- and let it snap back in place.
Do I need to start and end drywall on a stud?
Connect the marks with a straightedge, alternatively, and draw a line to mark the cut guide. Score through the face of the drywall, using a utility knife and following the cut guide.
Hold a carpenter's square up against the cut line if it helps keep your cut straight and confident. Apply firm pressure, making several passes, as needed, to cut through the paper and into the drywall fairly deeply -- up to half the thickness. Bend the drywall back to snap the remaining material apart. Cut through the paper on the back of the drywall, which is the only thing holding the cut pieces together, working from the back of the sheet.
Support both sides of the drywall as you cut; the weight of the drywall can rip and tear the paper surface of the piece as you cut, or break the board as it falls. Hold the cut-to-size piece of drywall up, in place, to check the fit. If the measurements and cut are accurate, it ends in the center of the last stud that it touches, as marked previously.
Karie Fay earned a Bachelor of Science in psychology with a minor in law from the University of Arkansas at Monticello. After growing up in construction and with more than 30 years in the field, she believes a girl can swing a hammer with the best of them.Based in Oklahoma City, Debbie Tolle has been working in the home-improvement industry since and writing since The studs in your wall must be flush to hang drywall evenly.
Uneven studs will result in uneven walls. You can fix this situation without reconstructing your framing by simply adding to it or taking away from it.
Adding to or taking away from framing is a time-saving solution compared with completely removing all uneven wall studs. This job can be completed with basic hand tools and, since there will be no construction, you do not need a carpenter. Hold the level across the studs beginning at the left or right side of the wall.
Since studs are typically 16 inches apart, your inch level will cover three studs at a time. The level will show you which stud or studs are out of line or not flush. Some of your studs may stick out too far, and some of them may not be out far enough. Nail shims to the stud to raise surfaces that are too low. A shim is a thin piece of tapered wood that helps to fill voids. Nail the shim to the 2-inch side of the stud, the narrower end facing you.
You may need more than one shim at the same spot, and you may need shims at various heights along the length of the stud. Use your planer to shave studs that extend too far out. A planer is a handheld tool with a sharp blade.
Hold the planer to the 2-inch side of the stud and push it away from you. The blade will shave off the surface of the stud a little bit at a time. Be aware of electrical lines that are sometimes routed through through holes drilled in your studs. Do not nail into any electrical wiring. Pin Share Tweet Share Email. Lining Up Studs For Drywall. Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Tip Finish nails will be less likely to split your shims than larger nails. Shims can be easily cut with a box knife if you need to trim them off.
Warning Be aware of electrical lines that are sometimes routed through through holes drilled in your studs. Video Preventing Drywall Problems. Show Comments.This seems like a silly question but what happens when your butt joint between two drywall pieces falls between studs? I always thought you had to screw it at the joint Do you just tape it or do you install wood boards across the studs to screw into? You should have a solid stud to screw into. Otherwise the drywall will flex and you won't ever get a permanent straight finish.
If you are patching, build a frame to screw the patch into. If you are doing new drywall work, one stud should be shared by two boards. If that can't be done, screw a 2x4 right up against the existing stud and screw the drywall into that. Using a good electric drill and a masonry bit make sure it is the kind for a regular drill and not a hammer drill you can drill holes into the mortar joints between the blocks in two places the height that you want to hang the mirrow.
Then use tap-con screws to hang what is called a "French cleat" on the wall and use small wood screws to attach the other half of the French cleat to the backing or frame of the mirror.
These two sides of the cleat fit together -- it is like a slanted bar that fits into the cleat across the wall. All this hardware can be bought at a big building center or hardware store. I have hung several humongous framed mirrors this way including one over a fireplace where the wall was plaster over firebrick though I used a hammerdrill to hang that cleat.
For curtains and pictures, you can use smaller tapcons to fasten various hooks and tabs on the wall to hang the curtains and framed pictures the way you would on any other wall, with wires or curtain rods. You need to cut the drywall so the edges fall on a stud. Unless you were using 1" drywall or doubling the sheets 2 layers the unsupported edge would likely break if leaned on. Even if it didn't break, the taped bond would crack from the stress.
Below is a link to a site giving specs on the subject. I am no carpenter but I would say trim one piece of drywall and extend another piece of drywall so that the joint will be on a stud. Otherwise the wall may look caved in or pushed out and it will not be as strong. Also, a backered joint is not as strong as a stud joint that is fastened at both ends. Another tip. Keep butt joints away from each other and try to stay away from outlet holes. It will make it easier when you do the taping.
Answer Save. Cut the sheet so it meets on a stud Ruth Lv 4. How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer. I would install wood boards but then, I'm just a girl. Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.Professional drywall crews use several special techniques for hanging drywall. Practiced correctly, these techniques speed installation and make taping, mudding, and finishing flow smoothly.
The first step to hanging drywall is to take a pencil and mark on the floor and ceiling the placement of the vertical studs. This will simplify the attachment of the drywall panels to the framing. Make sure any insulating work and vapor barrier installation are complete before you begin hanging drywall panels. While amateurs often install drywall panels vertically, so that the long seams align along a stud, this is not the usual professional method.
Instead, begin in one upper corner of the room and install panels horizontally with the top edge against the ceiling. Pros typically install the top row of panels first. Make sure the end of the panel falls over the center of a stud; you may need to score and snap the panel to make it fit.
While DIYers usually work with 8-ft. Professional drywall hanging crews generally consist of two workers. Drywall scaffolding can also be used. Begin attachment by driving some screws or nails on the ends and down the center of the panel to hold it in place against the studs.
Breaking the paper ruins the strength of the attachment. Space the fasteners 8 to 12 inches apart along the side edges, and no more than 16 inches apart where screws attach to studs in the field.
Measure the distance between the first drywall panel installed and the end of the wall. For large rooms, you may be installing a full second panel, but smaller rooms will likely require you to cut the adjoining panel to size.
The easiest way to trim drywall panels is to score the face of the panel with a utility knife guided by a drywall T-square or metal straightedge, then snap the panel away from the scored line.It's EASY to Find Studs WITHOUT A STUD FINDER!!!!!
With the panel bent backward at an angle, the backside of the drywall can be scored along the fold. Snapping the panel back in the original direction will cleanly sever the pieces. Pro crews normally finish the top row of panels around the entire room before continuing to the bottom panels. To make cutouts for electrical boxes and other obstructions, you can take careful measurements and transfer them to the drywall panels to mark cutout locations.
Do Drywall Seams Have to Be on a Stud?
Press the panel firmly against the wall to transfer the chalk markings to the back of the drywall. Then, remove the panel and use a wallboard saw or rotary drywall cutout tool to complete the cutout along the marks.
Where drywall panels fit around window and door openings, the panels will need to be notched to fit around them. This is normally done by taking measurements, marking the drywall panels, then cutting along the marks with a rotary cutout tool a manual drywall saw can also be used. If possible, avoid aligning the joints between panels along the edges of windows or doors, or placing them directly above or below windows and doors, as the normal structural movement of the house can cause these drywall joints to crack.
Now, install the bottom row of panels. Begin installation in the opposite corner of the room in order to offset the vertical seams from the top row to the bottom. Drywall has the most structural strength if these vertical seams are offset by at least 4 feet. You are now ready for the taping and mudding crew to do their work. Construction Projects. Full Bio Follow Linkedin. Juan Rodriguez is a former writer with The Balance who covered large-scale construction. He is an engineer with experience managing and overseeing large civil works construction.
Read The Balance's editorial policies. Start With the Right Layout. Note : Where an entire room is being drywalled, professional crews always do the ceiling first.When installing drywall flat against a stud, there are two types of drywall joints, or seams, you can make: the butt joint or the tapered joint.
A joint is created when two pieces of drywall are placed next to each other and attached with drywall tape and compound. Tapered joints allow you to fill in the "valley" created by the tapers with drywall tape and drywall compound, thus creating a smooth, seam-free joint. Butt joints will always produce a ridge.
With careful application of compound and sanding, butt joints can be made to disappear. The name "butt joint" comes from an installation process when two non-tapered sheets of drywall are "butted up" next to each other.
A thin coat of drywall compound is laid down, then drywall tape is embedded in the compound. Then another thin layer of compound is spread over the tape. Tip : use a flat type of drywall tape such as ordinary paper tape or FibaTape Perfect Finish tape to avoid bulges after application of joint compound. If you look carefully at the long edge of drywall, you will notice that on each side there is a taper.
It is nearly always preferable to choose the tapered joint over the butt joint in flat i. This is because joint compound can be used to fill in the taper. Together, the two tapers form a triangle. This triangle drywall taper will allow for drywall tape and joint compound to be filled in, without leaving any kind of bulge.
Whenever possible, you should make tapered joints because the seam is nearly invisible. The tapered drywall joint results in nearly invisible seams because the mudding compound perfectly fits in the "valley" and does not rise above the level of the drywall facing.
With the tapered drywall joint, you can even use a stronger type of tape, such as mesh fiberglass drywall tape. You would not want to use fiberglass mesh on butt joints because it is fairly thick and will result in bulges. Butt Joint Defined : The edges of the two sheets of adjoining drywall have the same thickness as the rest of the drywall sheet. These edges are located on the 4 foot long ends of the drywall sheet. Tapered Joint Defined : The edges of two sheets of adjoining drywall taper from the rest of the sheet's thickness to a reduced thickness.
These edges are located on the 8 foot long ends of the sheet. Which to Choose Whenever you have the choice, choose the tapered joint. Continue to 2 of 4 below. Butt Joint Installation.
Continue to 3 of 4 below. Making a Tapered Drywall Joint. A drywall taper is formed when the tapered edges of two sheets of drywall are adjoined. Note that the drywall taper is only for flat installations, not corner installations. Continue to 4 of 4 below. Filling the Tapered Drywall Joint.When installing or detailing drywall, or gypsum board, you may be wondering if you need to dimension the pieces centered on the studs of the wall or ceiling you are working with.
Ideally you want to make sure that the drywall seams are centered on a stud frame in order to secure it adequately to the structure. In situations where drywall is not able to be mounted to studs or other structural members, failure in the joint is likely.
If you have no choice but to hang the drywall joints in between the studs, the best alternative is to install a new stud in between. Similarly, blocking can be used in between studs to provide a surface for the drywall to attach to. In addition to this, there are other practices that can make installing or detailing drywall more effective.
Spacing of the fasteners can play a big role as well as minimizing gaps between sheets and floating the joints. As with any project, proper planning can make a big difference in terms of productivity and quality of end result. For this reason, you want to make sure you make notes of all the conditions of the space before you even begin your project. Stud spacing is typically 16 inches on center. Sometimes it can be spaced 24 inches on center or at another dimension.
Take this time to make any notes of stud locations at corners. If there are none, make a note of it. If there are any openings in the wall for doors and windows, take measurements as well and note where the structural members are located. This will allow you to plan ahead and should give you a starting point for your drywall sheet sizing. Ideally, you want to use sheets that are sized to align with the stud spacing. There are sometimes situations where you have to hang drywall on a corner where there is very little surface to attach to or even no stud at all to work with.
Ideally, you want to have at least 1 inch of surface to attach the drywall sheet to.
In situations where you have less than 1 inch, you can install a new stud adjacent to the existing stud. Be sure to inspect the corners of the room before beginning the drywall installation. This will allow you to address these issues ahead of time so that you can focus on laying out the drywall more effectively.
Ideally, you want joint spacing between drywall sheets to be minimal to none. If at all possible, the joints should be snug against each other so that there is no gap between the sheets.
However, in practice this is not always feasible. In situations where there are gaps between sheets, you can use drywall mud to cover the gaps and then tape over the joints. Anything more than that will become unnecessarily labor intensive and require more drywall mud. Aim to keep the joints tight against each other to allow the sheetrock to perform better and reduce added labor.
Drywall Joints: Butt vs. Tapered
The spacing of drywall screws is important as too few attachments can result in sheets coming undone and bulging at the edges. While there is no set standard and the exact spacing can vary depending on who you ask, there are some general guidelines to follow.
First, the spacing should be closer at edge conditions. Edges are where two walls intersect, or where the wall meets the ceiling. Second, because drywall on ceilings is subject to greater stress due to the pull of gravity, the spacing should be closer than on walls. On edges where walls intersect or on walls that meet the ceiling, 8 inches of spacing is a good rule of thumb. For the ceiling drywall, inches is more appropriate where it meets walls.
Interior wall attachments can be spaced at 16 inches.